READ THIS FIRST AND I SUGGEST THIS ALSO. OK FIRST I SUGGEST IF YOU ARE SERIOUS ABOUT TRYING THIS DONT TRY IT OVER THE WEEKEND OR AFTER WORK ON A CAR YOU NEED FOR WORK SOME PROBLEMS MAY SLOW YOU DOWN FROM COMPLETING THIS PROJECT AND I DFONT WANT ANY HATERS SAYIN THEY MISSED WORK CUZ OF *** SO BUY A USED LS BOTTOM END AND A VTEC HEAD AND ECU.  FROM A SALVAGE YARD OR ON EBAY TO START YOUR BUILD!

ok ill do a write up as brief as i can but to the point... as far as bein able to take a gsr thats on the driver skill but i can say you should have no prob hangin in wit them... ok well here we go..

here are some basic parts to start from... water and oil pumps from gsr or itr.. umm arp rod bolts for the ls pistons to ensure they stay connected under vtec..and consider a ls/vtec kit from golden eagle makes everything easier..

for the block if you bought a salvage yard motor YOU MAY WANT TO TEAR IT DOWN COMPLETLY AND REHONE THE CYLINDERS AND BALANCE THE ROTATING ASSEMBLY FOR PRECAUTIONS YOU DONT HAVE TO BUT YOU CAN.. make sure you have your pistons you want to use so you can keep the cylinder walls in spec for them..and gauge all your bearings for proper clearance upon reassembly....of course its obvious an ls bottom end... jdm b16a p30 pistons from the jdm civic are the ones i suggest... they are the ones ive used the ls pistons dont have the deep enough dish to clear the intake valves so you need the b16 pistons they are the best fitting for the job...

for the head for precautions you should clay your motor to be sure nothing will cause catastrophic failure..lets assume you use the gsr hear im a lil familiar with these they are what i use...so if you do u need the intake manifold as well and p72 ecu or any ecu thats vtec and matches your obd code.. tap and plug the vtec oil passage with set screw.. make sure the screw is seated far enough in the head it doesnt effect the gasket seal at all..ohh dont forget thread lock on the set screw also..decide what passage on your head you want to use as your new oil line.. get a sandwich plate so you can install your oil feed line for vtec easier with less work.... if you choose not to get the sandwich plate  you will have to put an oil T fitting on your block.remove the oil pressure sending unit then install the T fitting in its place teflon tape the fitting and snug fit it... not too tight do the same with the oil pressure sending unit.. teflon tape also..then connect your vtec oil line to the last opening on the T fitting ..

to finish you need to run 2 3 or 4 wires through your fire wall to the ecu.. 2 wires to your vtec selenoid.. 1 to your knock sensor if your ecu requires it... and 1 for the IAB if using the GSR head and intake manifold.. depending on what ecu obd you have will depend on where to connect the wires in your ecu harness. you can ground your vtec switch to your engine so you dont have to run that wire through your fire wall now if everything is done right you should have no problem turning it over on the first try... and you will have to do the standard break in procedures for the first 500 miles i suggest you do any way... and wait till you have it broke in decent then i also suggest running full synthetic oil thats what i like but you dont have to...

you can buy conversion kits for roughly 200 bucks from golden eagle, MISOJDM.com, or InlineFour.com

my first one i did from all used parts and was turnin over but didnt want to stay on so i just cleaned out the injectors and put some octane booster in the tank and cleared out the system and it was ok then. im sure ill hear back on this one cuz a few of you out there were curious on the subject so happy tuning and good luck on your build.  

ok so for taping a hole for the oil pressure switch were does that go. So you can use the b16 head or the b18. is building a ls/vtec the same as doing a b20 vtec. cause I am maybe considering doing that. thanks for the write up though man its appreciated.
peace  

if looking at the back of the head the intake side... there is room on the right side near the top when lookin at it you will think to yourself that would be great to run the line there.. when looking at it you will know... pending on if you get a conversion kit i think they may have suggestions in there but i ran mine where another guy told me he did his and it seems fine..cr/vtec with the b20 is essentially the same they have conversion kits for that as well.. yeas you can utilize any b series vtec head for the build... ill put more up later ..like i said im even don the h23 vtec build i started collecting the parts thatll be a summer build so june keep an eye out for that and my buddy is doin somethin with d series motor if that is worth puttin up here ill post a write up on that as well... ill try to post a pic up here of how i ran my oil for my ls vtec so you can see everything...  

well i cant post it here it wont go through.. email me ill send it to you that way...dassoldat@yahoo.com  

i have a question about you saying that the ls pistons wont work with a gsr head... are you certain of this?....because i have read up a lot on doing this lsvtec swap with a gsr head and this is the only place that i have found where the ls pistons  "dont have the deep enough dish to clear the intake valves" is the piston going to hit the valves? or is it just really really close to them... please let me know...thank you in advance